Article by Denni Raubenheimer
Photos by Yolande van Niekerk
The Kruger National Park is arguably the most prolific non-private nature reserve
in South Africa for encountering the fabled Big 5, such as the Lion.
Margaux Mathey-Le Roux is a registered free-lance Field Guide that often leads open vehicle safaris through the World renowned Kruger National Park. She has been conducting tours for over 3 years and has a deep love for the Park and its wildlife. I am happy that she has obliged us in answering a series of question about her experience of the Kruger.
Margaux, please tell us why you got into the nature-tourism industry?
It’s actually quite strange- ever since I was a little girl my parents would always take us into wild and remote wilderness areas for holidays, be it Kruger, the Kalahari or Mapelane (Greater St. Lucia Wetlands Park.) My dad, being a passionate nature lover, traveller and adventurer would always try to expose us to various bush experiences, and so the seed was sown.
It was however much later in life that I decided to take up field guiding as a career, as this was the perfect opportunity to combine my passion for people and nature, showing the general public how wonderfully everything in the natural World has been assembled and how everything is interconnected and interdependent, and that we are responsible for maintaining this vulnerable balance.
I did my fist Field Guiding course in 2003, but I soon decided to get a proper university qualification, and decided to study Eco-tourism Management at Tshwane University of Technology. I did the 3 years Diploma course, and went on to do my B-Tech (Post grad studies), and I plan on doing my M-Tech in the near future.
In a few words how would you describe your experience of the Kruger as a safari guide?
I’ve always had a soft spot for the Kruger, and even though I can travel the same road a million times things are constantly changing, and just when you think you’ve seen it all nature always ends up surprising you. I love the unexpected thrill of it all!
It seems a general opinion that game- and tourist densities in the Kruger are highest in the southern portions of the Park. Has this been your experience?
I have to agree with this statement. Animal densities tend to be higher in the Southern parts, where the various ecotypes and vegetation types allow various plant species to flourish- giving rise to a greater mammal species diversity.
Access to the Southern Parts are also fairly easy, with major gates being found in close proximity to the N4 highway, and to easily accessible towns such as White River and Hazyview, so its natural for most tourists to make use of these access points in the South. Unfortunately during peak tourist seasons the roads can become quite congested, and the animals in general move away to find some peace and quite.
Between the southern, middle and northern portions of the Kruger, which do you prefer and why?
I prefer the North. It’s more remote, and although animal numbers tend to be a bit lower than in other parts of the Park, all of the Big 5 can be found in the area. It’s also a brilliant place for bird watching, and the scenery is magnificent. It just feels ‘wilder”, as a day can go by without seeing any other tourist- something that never happens in the South of the Park.
If you had to choose three favourite Kruger camps, excluding the more expensive private camps, which would they be and why?
Punda Maria: It’s far, remote and very hot, and very few people are willing to trek to this area, as this is not known to be an ideal area for Big 5 spotting. On the contrary, all of your Big 5 can be seen here, but I love the place for it lacks the mass influx of tourists who are only there to find the hairy scary animals. Punda is also known for its bird diversity, and any true birder would miss out if they have never been to this area of the Kruger. A true wilderness experience!
For some tourists the abundance and diversity of birds in the Kruger
are its main attraction. Various birds, such as the Saddle-billed Stork,
have their South African stronghold in the Kruger.
Serenhi Bush Camp: This is a private bush camp, and it can be seen as being a little more expensive, but I think it’s worth every penny. It’s remote location and the small number of people that it can accommodate makes this an ideal camp if you want to get away from the masses. I’ve seen amazing things in this area- a leopard chasing buffalo, cheetahs and more seldom seen animals such as tsessebe and roan antelope. I might go so far as to say this is my favourite camp in the whole of Kruger.
Lower Sabie: For the average person who can only stay for a couple of nights, I can recommend Lower Sabie. This is a much more commercial camp than the others I mentioned, but its location on the banks of the Sabie River makes it an ideal place to do game viewing from. A drive next to the river is bound to deliver hordes of elephants, and further north one has a good opportunity to see cheetahs on the open plains. I like the camp for its diversity.
Apart from the Big 5, Cheetah and Wild Dog, what Kruger animals do you particularly enjoy encountering?
Well yes, after the African Wild Dog, I would have to say that my all time favourite animal is the Dwarf Mongoose! They are so curious, and if you were to switch your vehicle’s engine off they would actually come out of the bush in most cases and inspect your vehicle- very brave and often overlooked little creatures!
The Dwarf Mongoose is truly an inquisitive and brave member of the Kruger mammals.
As a guide and as someone staying close to the Kruger you’ve probably witnessed some amazing happenings in the Park. Please share one or two with us.
This is quite a tricky question!
I think one of the most memorable experiences I’ve ever had was when I was fortunate enough to stumble into a group five black rhinos whilst I was out doing a morning drive. For anybody who knows a little about these animals will know its not only endangered and scarce to find, but to see five together all at once was absolutely amazing and very rare. I was the only vehicle with them, and I urged my guests to keep as quite as possible, because these animals in particular have quite a notorious reputation for charging without provocation. We sat and watched them for several minutes, and then something extraordinary happened: two of them started to mate! This was a very rare and sacred moment- one that I doubt I will ever experience again in my lifetime.
Another moment that will always stay with me happened in 2007, during my first week of working as a guide. At that time I worked at one of the 5 star private lodges, and I was living on-site in the Kruger Park. In the middle of the afternoon I was asked to assist some of the housekeepers with preparing a room for the new arriving guests. I heard an alarm call of some of the resident bushbuck as I walked to the furthest suite, but I thought nothing of it, as it was hot and I thought that no predator would be active during this time of the day. I had managed to get to the door, when all of a sudden I saw three bushbuck dashing past us, followed in close pursuit by a rather ‘odd looking baboon’. It happened so quickly, yet it took my brain several seconds to register that this was not a baboon, but a leopard whom had just run past us and killed one of the bushbuck, less than 15 meters from where we were standing. What made the moment even more memorable is that we were standing in an unfenced area, and for the first time I was taught a very important lesson: always respect nature and the warnings she gives, and be ready to expect the unexpected!
Would you say visiting the Kruger on a regular basis has had an emotional or spiritual impact on your life? If so, please elaborate.
For sure it’s had both an emotional and spiritual impact on my life. Unfortunately there are days when the guests just want to chase after the Big 5, and in the process one loses a bit of the magic of the natural environment, but some days you are fortunate enough to come across like-minded souls who are keen to sit quietly and absorb the beauties of the wilderness. It’s in these quite moments that one can become so absorbed in the splendour and grandeur of it all and you cannot go without acknowledging the Awesomeness of our Creator.
If any readers were planning a visit to the Kruger National Park and wished to go on a guided vehicle safari, how could they contact you? And where do you meet-up with your tourists?
They could either email me at margauxmat@mweb.co.za, or they could phone me on 072 146 2716. I don’t have set safari rates, as I ensure each Safari experience is tailor-made to suit the group’s requirements, and I will then discuss all of these details with the party involved.
I do pick-ups at most hotels and lodges in the areas surrounding Southern Kruger, and it can even be arranged that I meet people inside the Kruger itself in the rest camps like Skukuza and Pretoriuskop.
Many people have a deeply emotional and even spiritual experience
of places of such natural beauty as is found in the Kruger National Park.
Much thanks to Margaux Mathey-Le Roux for the time and effort she took which made this article possible.